Sirs: I have identified the lock which will replace the barely functioning lock in my patio door.
It is the
82-218 with the "rounded" corners. The dimensions on your webpage graphics match up
"on the money" [CTC screws/lockface/etc].
Sidebar: I understand the problem is an oval-shaped rod/pin wearing down to round over 30+yrs
[~1980 ---But I think someone worked on it prior to us, as the pane gasket on one corner is looped
out of the channel ~1"+ --they stretched it while putting it back together---a "No-No"!!! So the lock
appears to have been replaced somewhere, as the Pane unit appears "original"---why else to take
apart the door?] ---the lock mechanism operates, but the "hook" will not quite lung out far enough
to catch the bent-metal "receiver" on the frame, to secure the door in a locked position.
If you extend the hook with the door open, and manually push the hook up to its maximum height,
then slowly/carefully close the door, move the lock lever to "lock, it engages and locks the door.
If you simply unlock/open the door, then close/lock it, it does not lock. There is "play"
in the hook/lock in the open position---it does not raise the hook high enough, and if you
adjust/lower the "receiver", it is too low to catch the hook. Are you folowing?
I have tried to extract the lock from the door, wrapped a stainless steel wire
around the hook, and twisted the ends tightly [doesn't break/part as easily as "baling" wire].
But I am unable to "tilt" it at an angle great enough to allow me to bring it out.
I think it is catching on some "hole burrs" remaining from the drilling process for the
handle mount screws "pass thru" holes [the holes are not "finished-product machined quality"]
In any event, my question is this: Have you ever heard/know of a door that the lock could only be
replaced by extracting the panel to a flat work table, and removing the side stile of the door,
then extracting the lock from the inside of the stile extrusion?
[I would like to avoid that, if at all possible, for obvious reasons.
I have attached photos [as close-up as possible, given lens f-stop], to aid in possible identification
of the door. Ther are no labels anywhere on the door frame/panels/etc to identify manufacturer.
[I've had the panels out, to clean the tops/bottoms/rollers, then carefully lubed the roller pulley
axles with a toothpick and MoS2 lube ["black moly" ]. They barely slid, now the door
glides like brand new !! Will do the same with the lock---make it last longer--M/B--M/B Not.
Sidebar: I'll share some info--in exchange for yours on my question--hope that's equitable....
Molybdenum DiSulfide was "originally" developed by Corning Industries in a desire by National Observatories
to find a grease that would not "wipe" from between the inner and outer bearing race surfaces of the bearings
that carry the telescope and its [extremely heavy] carriage. The outer race diameter is extremely large
[hundreds of feet], the inner race diameter [actually another bearing] is extremely small. The area of actual contact
is only a few thousandths of an inch. Molybdenum DiSulfide has an extremely high "Wipe Pressure"---the
pressure at which the lube is effectively "squeezed" off the metal surface, in the case of
Molybdenum DiSulfide, is in the range >tens of thousands of PSI. And if you use aerosol Molybdenum DiSulfide ["dry moly"],
---there is no oil/grease to attract dirt. In addition, on a molecular level, the atoms of MoS2, espially the "greaseless aerosol,
actually "embed" [or start to], themselves between the atoms of the metal they are applied to.
And the softer [less dense], the metal is, the greater the embedding. Which makes use of MoS2
on metals with high friction co-efficients [aluminum/etc], very useful. Molybdenum DiSulfide is
relatively unreactive. It is unaffected by dilute acids and oxygen---it actualy is akin/analogous to
anodize/powdercoat/etc. coatings. And especially salt----which makes it very useful in
marine environments ---military---where a lot of weight can be saved [aluminum flight decks/fittings/etc].
And the attack of salt on aluminum at sea is relentles !! But enough of my "Wordiness",
you can read much more online--check it out.
[Needless to say, I'm a big fan of Molybdenum DiSulfide---I use it for everything
---even the table bearing on my Technics SL-220 Turntable and the vise screws
on my 30yr+ B&D Workmate [steel screws/aluminum receivers].--------
"Take care of the tools, they will take care of you"......
One final note.... Took a look at the windows, as I believe they were bought at the same
place/time as the doors, logic dictates probably same manufacturer---also think it was
probably Home Depot [just a guess], as I worked 20+yrs on a [new] house that had the
same windows in it [3K SF---finish craftsman capentry---rouhg/finish electrical---finish plumbing]
---where the screen could not be removed from the outside, only
from the inside with the slider portion removed, and the same "anti-burglar" lever in the
bottom channel to prevent the slider side from being opened further, but still leave the window vented.
