SWISCO - The Replacement Hardware Authority

need weatherstripping for wood sash casement windows

A quick learner says:
Hi: I have a 100 year old home with some older wood sash casements which have no weatherstripping. I do not want to nail or screw on the weatherstripping on the inside of the window frame. I would like something concealed like the door type which pushes into a kerf. The window frames do not have an existing kerf, and due to the depth of the window inset, it would be very difficult to router or cut one.

My question-Can I cut a kerf on the window sashes (just out from the edges), and push in the bubble seal? Does this provide enough seal when compressed? What is the width of the groove to push the bulb tongue into? I also noticed that you had a L shaped bulb as well. Does this attatch to the side of the sash and the bulb wrap around to the sash face? Does this work better?

I then wanted to use a awning type hardware to open and latch, but mount it on the side not the bottom. Any problems doing this you can see? Do you carry this type hardware?

Thanks, Steve
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Dave from SWISCO responded:
Thanks for posting! This is a great question. I actually have wood casement windows in the sunroom at my house. I think you should be able to cut a large enough slot to accommodate some of our bulbbleseal. My windows have a bubble weather strip in the inside stop. Look at our 58-053 & 58-055. The sashes themselves have a foam type weatherstrip. See our 58-163 and 58-170. You can see their dimensions on each of their respective product pages to get an idea of the size of the slot you'd want.

As for the hardware, you should already have a casement type operator on the sill which opens and closes the window sash. If it needs to be replaced, you can take a few pictures of it and upload them here for me to see and try to identify. After the sash is closed you should have a lock which locks and helps seal the window sash tight. Look at our 38-075 and the keeper 38-089.
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