Lock replacement

A home owner from Crestline CA says:
Sirs: I have identified the lock which will replace the barely functioning lock in my patio door. It is the 82-218 with the "rounded" corners. The dimensions on your webpage graphics match up "on the money" [CTC screws/lockface/etc].

Sidebar: I understand the problem is an oval-shaped rod/pin wearing down to round over 30+yrs [~1980 ---But I think someone worked on it prior to us, as the pane gasket on one corner is looped out of the channel ~1"+ --they stretched it while putting it back together---a "No-No"!!! So the lock appears to have been replaced somewhere, as the Pane unit appears "original"---why else to take apart the door?] ---the lock mechanism operates, but the "hook" will not quite lung out far enough to catch the bent-metal "receiver" on the frame, to secure the door in a locked position.

If you extend the hook with the door open, and manually push the hook up to its maximum height, then slowly/carefully close the door, move the lock lever to "lock, it engages and locks the door.

If you simply unlock/open the door, then close/lock it, it does not lock. There is "play" in the hook/lock in the open position---it does not raise the hook high enough, and if you adjust/lower the "receiver", it is too low to catch the hook. Are you folowing?

I have tried to extract the lock from the door, wrapped a stainless steel wire around the hook, and twisted the ends tightly [doesn't break/part as easily as "baling" wire]. But I am unable to "tilt" it at an angle great enough to allow me to bring it out. I think it is catching on some "hole burrs" remaining from the drilling process for the handle mount screws "pass thru" holes [the holes are not "finished-product machined quality"]

In any event, my question is this: Have you ever heard/know of a door that the lock could only be replaced by extracting the panel to a flat work table, and removing the side stile of the door, then extracting the lock from the inside of the stile extrusion? [I would like to avoid that, if at all possible, for obvious reasons.

I have attached photos [as close-up as possible, given lens f-stop], to aid in possible identification of the door. Ther are no labels anywhere on the door frame/panels/etc to identify manufacturer. [I've had the panels out, to clean the tops/bottoms/rollers, then carefully lubed the roller pulley axles with a toothpick and MoS2 lube ["black moly" ]. They barely slid, now the door
glides like brand new !! Will do the same with the lock---make it last longer--M/B--M/B Not.

Sidebar: I'll share some info--in exchange for yours on my question--hope that's equitable....

Molybdenum DiSulfide was "originally" developed by Corning Industries in a desire by National Observatories to find a grease that would not "wipe" from between the inner and outer bearing race surfaces of the bearings that carry the telescope and its [extremely heavy] carriage. The outer race diameter is extremely large [hundreds of feet], the inner race diameter [actually another bearing] is extremely small. The area of actual contact is only a few thousandths of an inch. Molybdenum DiSulfide has an extremely high "Wipe Pressure"---the pressure at which the lube is effectively "squeezed" off the metal surface, in the case of Molybdenum DiSulfide, is in the range >tens of thousands of PSI. And if you use aerosol Molybdenum DiSulfide ["dry moly"], ---there is no oil/grease to attract dirt. In addition, on a molecular level, the atoms of MoS2, espially the "greaseless aerosol, actually "embed" [or start to], themselves between the atoms of the metal they are applied to.

And the softer [less dense], the metal is, the greater the embedding. Which makes use of MoS2 on metals with high friction co-efficients [aluminum/etc], very useful. Molybdenum DiSulfide is relatively unreactive. It is unaffected by dilute acids and oxygen---it actualy is akin/analogous to anodize/powdercoat/etc. coatings. And especially salt----which makes it very useful in marine environments ---military---where a lot of weight can be saved [aluminum flight decks/fittings/etc].

And the attack of salt on aluminum at sea is relentles !! But enough of my "Wordiness", you can read much more online--check it out. [Needless to say, I'm a big fan of Molybdenum DiSulfide---I use it for everything ---even the table bearing on my Technics SL-220 Turntable and the vise screws on my 30yr+ B&D Workmate [steel screws/aluminum receivers].-------- "Take care of the tools, they will take care of you"......

One final note.... Took a look at the windows, as I believe they were bought at the same place/time as the doors, logic dictates probably same manufacturer---also think it was probably Home Depot [just a guess], as I worked 20+yrs on a [new] house that had the same windows in it [3K SF---finish craftsman capentry---rouhg/finish electrical---finish plumbing] ---where the screen could not be removed from the outside, only from the inside with the slider portion removed, and the same "anti-burglar" lever in the bottom channel to prevent the slider side from being opened further, but still leave the window vented.
User submitted photos of patio door hardware.
Profile picture of Dave Sr.
Dave Sr. from SWISCO responded:
Thanks for contacting us, and for the great insight. Take a a look at the mortise lock in your door. (it resembles our 82-218). You will see a small slot head screw. This is the adjustment for the hook. Turning it will have it extend out further and hopefully solve your problem. See if that will fix your locking problem. If you want to remove the lock from the door, take a look at our video below. That should help answer your question.
A professional from California says:
The mortise lock spring is probably broken. That is the single most common problem with this style of lock. I'm fairly sure that is T.M. Cobb. They always put the mortise in upside down. Be sure you have anti-lift screws. Also, turn the outside handle the other way while you are at it.
A quick learner from Crestline CA says:
Thank you for your quick response, as in "today's" world, I know you are busy---[who isn't?]. in addition, in the "You are a:" category above, need to add a "Most of the above" selection---HeHeHe !!

I [had--sorry I omitted that detail], tried the adjustment screw, prior, it didn't work???... Maybe I did not turn it enough [afraid "something" will come apart if too many turns??], but I went in again just now, with a lot of turns, and it seemed to help. But the "hook" is still very "wobbly/movable", so I think [without "taking it apart" till the new lock arrives] still, something is not "right". When the new lock arrives, I can take it out/apart & "inspect" it for wear ---it will get replaced with one of the 2 new ones, anyway, the other will be a "spare"--back door, whatever---yes, the 2 sliders ARE really in that good of shape [and after 20+ years].

Again, Thank You, you represent [some would call], doing business the "old-fashioned way"--which I see "coming back", more & more. I prefer to think of it in terms of what my father drilled into me: "It doesn't matter what you are in life, whether a garbage collector or a neurosurgeon, just do two things---be happy what you are, then be the best there is!!" And the best there is, is a "Professional" That you are--"You make us Proud", your peers are saying. KUDOS to you, happy to seek your "consultation", I Am !! And a pleasure doing business with your firm under those conditions.

Later, my friend. [will post if anything worthwhile, and no reply expected--you are busy]


R&D Lab Engineer [Ret.]
Profile picture of Dave Sr.
Dave Sr. from SWISCO responded:
Thanks for getting back to us, Sam. Please let us know how the new lock works out. Your father was a wise man, we try our best to keep things as old fashioned as we can in this medium. Please let us know if you ever need anything else!
A quick learner from Crestlne CA says:
Thank you Dave, and Thank you "A professional from California". Any/all info highly regarded. Will keep you posted as necessary. Now just waiting for warm[er] weather & no precipitation [snowing today], so I can have the slider open
[yea---you're right-- "OF" means "colder" = "wussier"].

Later, my friends

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