weatherstripping for custom pocket door opening

A handy person from Mount Pleasant, SC says:
We chose a pocket door for the elevator opening into our family room to avoid taking up a lot of room with a swing-in door. We were told the shaft would be considered 'conditioned' space and have an exterior door at the garage level opening but we are still getting a lot of air leakage somehow and have an issue with what seems to be 'unconditioned air' into the home around this pocket door. We have already had a mortised specialty drop-down door sweep installed on this pocket door but now need to also add some sort of brush weather stripping around the top and side of the pocket entrance.

Any advise on this? It was never supposed to be an issued but this house has had nothing but issues. It's just not turned out to be the custom home we wanted . . . at ALL!
Profile picture of Tom
Tom from SWISCO responded:
It's hard to say. I've actually never had to recommend wool pile for a pocket door before, but there's a first for everything!

The first thing that comes to mind is our 58-026, which has an adhesive base. You just peel that back and stick the wool pile where it needs to be. The base width is 1/4" and the height of the pile is 1/4". Would that size work for you?
A quick learner from Mount Pleasant, SC says:
I think it just might. I might also have to put some small brad nails in it in case the adhesive weakens. Is that wool pile a rigid or very soft feel. And what would it normally be used for? Sliding patio doors?

Still waiting for the elevator sub to com and place the hook on the edge of the door and 'fix' the 'temporary' setup that they would LOVE to just make permanent.
So, when they are done moving the latch and hook then I plan to redo the trim around the door because the builders door guy didn't even hang the pocket frame equal distance in the space above. No bumpers or door guides for most of the pocket doors installed here either.

I have had to mark the location myself where this latching system was supposed to be installed as you can see where the outline is on one side of the opening. I would have already moved it myself if it didn't have electricity attached to it. I will only say that pocket doors are a marvelous thing IF installed by people who know what they are doing.

I am going to start the process with a Dremel and begin to cut the latch side and then start to cut out the door itself for the hook. The trim I plan to add will partially replace what is on the pocket side/recess side and above and the other side doesn't need any insulation. I'm just trying to decide if I need it on both sides since there are really NO floor guides (that were supposed to be installed inside the pocket but weren't. UGH
User submitted image of their window hardware.
Profile picture of Paul
Paul from SWISCO responded:
Sounds like you have quite the project on your hands. If you have a dremel then you could consider installing something like our 58-091, or even the 58-013 or 58-014. These are taller than the 58-026 and are often used for commercial doors.
Reply to Thread
Use this form to ask a follow-up question or to share your experience regarding this subject.
(your email address will be kept private and is only used to inform you when a response has been made)