Converting Rod to Channel Balance

A home owner from Marlton, NJ says:

1: I am converting from a Block and Tackle Rod Balance to a Channel Balance for all my windows, 19 to be exact. Does it matter which cam is chosen, open or closed, when replacing the entire balance? How do I know if the existing pivot bars are compatible with the replacement balances? Should I just replace the existing pivot bars with new pivot bars that are compatible with the new channel balances? The width of the existig shoe is 1 1/4"and they are "open", but that is the crossbow system.

2: Second floor windows have a 22 1/2" block and tackle rod for the balances. so, I probably would order a 22" channel. But the weight of these windows is 18.6 lbs. What is the stamp option for this sash weight? B or C ?

3: First floor windows have a 34 1/2" block and tackle balance. But I have to get back to you with the weight of these windows (probably a "c" stamp for the sash weight). The width of these windows are 36", can I weigh just one window and presume they are all the same weight? All sashes are the same dimension in height and have a 34 1/2" block and tackle balance as well.

4: Last question for now: One of the windows have a cracked/split frame where the pivot bar is attached. It is actually on the verge of detaching from the frame itself. Is there any reinforcement you offer for this situation?

Thank You,

Rossio

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Tom from SWISCO responded:

Hello! Thanks for reaching out to us, Rossio. I'll do my best to answer your questions in order.

  1. In normal circumstances, the type of cam does in fact matter. However, this isn't exactly a normal circumstance. In my experience, the standard "closed" cam option that comes default with the Series 795 replaces the old rod-type balance every time without issue. If there are exceptions to this rule then I have not yet encountered them.
  2. For an 18.6 pound sash supported by 22" long balances, I would absolutely recommend the 22C option. The 22B option only holds 10 through 16 pounds, which falls short.
  3. If you have a selection windows that are identical in size and make, there is a very good chance that the sashes all weigh the same, too. However, I can't tell you how many times I've assumed that two identical windows weigh the same only to find out that someone replaced the glass on one of them 30 years ago, making it like 10 pounds heavier than its partner. I know it's a hassle but older homes are full of little traps like that. The ultimate decision is yours, of course, but I just thought I'd warn you anyway. You never really know what the original owner did.
  4. Cracked sashes spell trouble. There isn't a whole lot you can do aside from replacing the sash itself, but I guess it depends on how extensive the damage is. If we're only talking about slight deterioration then you may want to opt for our 26-395 corners. These wrap around the whole bottom of the sash and should be compatible with the Series 795 balance. The only thing I worry about is how far the pin itself sticks out; 3/4" is pretty long. Be prepared to cut that down if it comes to it.

Hopefully that covers everything! Let me know if you had any other questions.

A home owner from Marlton, NJ says:
Hello Tom, thank for corresponding. However I inadvertently stated in questions #2 the length of the balance is 22". The correct length is 28". So, the question remains which option 28B or 28C, since 18 pounds happens to be the crossover for these options. Again, the weight of the sash is 18.6 lbs.
Also, these are a couple of photos of the cracked framing where the pivot bar is attached.
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Tom from SWISCO responded:

Gotcha, thanks for clarifying. IN that case you could go with either strength option. They both carry 18 pounds so in practice both will support the weight of your sash.

That crack will probably get worse over time but I do think our 26-395 is going to be your best bet. You should ultimately consider buying a new sash in a few years, though. 

As for what screws to use, that's a tricky question. Both the pivot bar and balance use #8 screws but the length depends more on the window than the hardware. You don't want to drill too deep into the sash, or else you risk hitting the glass. Conversely, you don't want to drill to shallow into the jamb or the screw won't have anything to hold onto. I would use your old screws as a reference for length as much as you can. If you take them in to a local hardware store you should be able to match them up.

A home owner from Marlton, NJ says:
Need identification of the photos of the bubble weather stripping which attaches to bottom of sash.
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A home owner from Marlton, NJ says:
Hello Tom, here are several photos of the existing latches on my sashes. Please identify and forward the product code for the compatible latch system.
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A home owner from Marlton, NJ says:
Hello Tom,
There are a numerous amounts of spray lubricants on the market eg. Dry Lube, Lithium, WD-40, graphite dry lubricant, to name a few. Which is your best recommendation for preventative maintenance for the S795 channel balances?
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Tom from SWISCO responded:

Hello again! So for the weatherstripping, I think you could use either our 58-171 or 58-182, depending on the size of the "T" that slides into the window. You'll have to measure yours as carefully as you can and then pick accordingly.

The tilt latch is an older version of our 26-243 and 26-244. Ours look a little different but should still work fine.

Finally, for lubricating balances you want to use silicone spray on the track and then, after a few years of use, white grease on the spring itself. Our balances come pre-lubricated so you don't need to worry about the hardware itself for some time, but silicone spray in the track works wonders before installation. It won't collect dust or debris like oil does, too.

A home owner from Marlton, NJ says:

Just to confirm see photos of old cross & bow system, pivot bar.

When attaching the top screw clips to both sides of the window jamb, should the clip be flush or tight to header or is there a distance to hold below the head jam?

Now all I have to do is make a takeoff list and fine tune it to place my order. Is it best to place my order via online or calling to speak with someone? As I stated from the beginning, I have 19 windows which have 3 different lengths of the balances, 5 different weights. Just want to eliminate any confusion.

Thanks Tom for everything, you're the Best!!!

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Tom from SWISCO responded:

I'm not sure exactly what you mean by this question, but if I understand properly then you want the screw tab that comes out of the top of the balance to be flat against the jamb. These are under constant pressure from the weight of the window (counter-balanced from the balance itself) so any gap would add undue strain.

As for how to place your order, it's ultimately up to you. All the parts we've talked about are standard and you can order them directly from our catalog at your convenience. Or, if you'd be more comfortable with it, you can give our customer service reps a call and they can fill your cart for you.

A home owner from Marlton, NJ says:
Hi Tom, as shown in photo, I was referring to the distance from top of clip to the head jam.
Also, shouldn't the clip be centered in the channel of jamb?
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A home owner from Marlton, NJ says:

Hello AGAIN Tom!

Can you please explain to me the difference between the tilt window latches:

26-419 Left Hand and the 24-243 Left Hand.

The only difference I can see is there is a 3/8" dimension on the underside of the 26-419 and a 3/16" dimension on the underside of the 26-243. I definitely do not know what these dimensions or offsets are indicating. As you can see in the photos of my existing latch, the underside is virtually hollow. All of the other dimensions match up.

Please advise.

Thank you,

Rossio

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Tom from SWISCO responded:

If the original clip was installed offset then I wouldn't mess with it. It's been working fine all these years and the Series 795 isn't so different that you want to go changing how that screw is installed. Why mess with success?

As for the 26-419 and 26-243, the only difference is in the location of the locking tab on the bottom of the housing. That dimension probably isn't going to match yours regardless of which latch you look at, but these will install just fine anyway. The sash will be pressed against the jamb while installed so it's not like they'll fall out. With that in mind, either one will work, I just recommended the 26-243 and 26-244 because they're more common. They're the same price anyway so it doesn't matter at the end of the day.

A home owner from Marlton, NJ says:
Very good! Thanks Tom ?
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