How do I remove the drawers without breaking the drawer sockets. All of mine have broken. Now all of my drawers hang down in the front when I open them. Is there a better support system for these drawers that I can use? Can I double up on the supports, using 2 per drawer instead of one? Or, should I just replace the broken sockets? Would I need to replace the sliders and runners as well?
Dresser manufacturer: Stanley
Purchased at: Foremost Furniture (NY,NY) - out of business.
42 Replies
Do the runner come in heavy duty also. Or even metal
Is there any other replacement that may be purchased that is metal or a better quality
My questions were all answered above. I just installed my new drawer hardware you sent. Just wanted to say THANKS from a former NJ girl. It is great to work with an American company!
After replacing my hardware, they seem to operate much better than the originals. I don't know why this is, but thanks!
This has been an extremely helpful website. We have Stanley junior furniture with Kenlin parts, and I couldn't figure out how to remove the drawers. When I pulled the drawer to the stop position I didn't see any latch or any other way to get the rest of the drawer out. Since these were pretty expensive dressers I didn't feel comfortable pulling harder to get them out. I pictured parts and wood breaking off. There appeared to be a plastic part under the drawer where you could fit a screwdriver, so I figure you needed to wedge a screwdriver in there and either push in, or maybe rotate the plastic part. Neither worked. Then I read this site telling me to just pull the drawer out past the stop. I decided to give it a try. I didn't pull hard or fast. I just slowly pulled the drawer to the stop position. Then I put my hands on either side of the drawer and slowly pulled out past the stop. It was no problem at all.
I have a 4-piece bedroom set with 32-081 Kenlin Drawer Sockets. Because of the use of a brittle type of plastic, they break very easily. I have replaced at least 8 over the past 3 years. Can you give me some assurance that the "heavy duty" 32-802's are going to work better?
I just wanted to say THANK YOU for the tip about removing the drawers. I have a dresser with Kenlin Rite Track II stops and watched 4 grown men nearly die moving the piece with all drawers IN. Now we're looking to move again and this makes life incredibly easy. A note for others: you don't have to pull HARD, just pull with consistent pressure, and evenly on either end of the drawer. Thanks!
I just purchased 3 sets of runners and sockets to repair 2 drawers with broken runners and sockets. Then I read here how to remove the drawers. Good thing I bought 3 sets because the drawer I "gently removed" broke the socket also. I got the heavy duty replacement ones with the metal backing. When you do this you might want to go with an oversized screw to get a good bite on the drawer. I have a different dresser with the Rite Trak II system, and of course the Rite Trak I and Rite Trak II parts are not interchangeable. You can order parts for the Rite Trake II system by going to Kenlin's website, printing off their order form and mailing it in to them. Quite an outdated order system but that is the way they do it (not as convenient as here). I haven't seen a heavy duty Rite Trak II socket from Kenlin, so I am hesitant to spend the money for something that is easily broken.
I weighed my dresser drawers (Drexel Studio Collection, Deer Valley)and they easily exceed 25 pounds with a reasonable amount of clothes in the drawer. What is the rated load for this hardware? Do the long metal guides and runners deform easily even with the new metal reinforced 32-082 : Heavy Duty Kenlin Socket?
Maybe I will do a test with weights?
I was looking to find out how to pull out the drawers on my Stanley chest of drawers. Like others, I was afraid of breaking them because there was no obvious means to release the drawer. A post by a home owner from Chicago sounded similar to my situation, so I tried just using steady pulling pressure with both hands as was mentioned in the post. Worked like a charm with no damage to my furniture! Thanks!
I have the Kenlin Track System on my drawers, and I have replaced these parts before. With the Kenlin Track System the drawer will slide out easily until the DRAWER SOCKET (at the back of the drawer) comes in contact with the CASE RUNNER (at the front of the fixed track). At this point, you just continue to pull the drawer out without tilting it up or down, and you will have to use a LOT MORE PULL EFFORT to get the DRAWER SOCKET pass the CASE RUNNER. On my drawers there are also STOPs located at the front to help keep the drawer inside the cabinet, you may have to lift the rear of the drawer UP a little to bypass the STOPs. I usually lift one side at a time, and move that side of the drawer out a little to get pass the STOP, and then repeat with the other side. On all of my drawers, I replace the standard DRAWER SOCKET with the HEAVY DUTY DRAWER SOCKET, it is a direct replacement, no extra work. At the same time I replace the CASE RUNNER as it is most likely also worn. Be sure and lube the bottom of the drawer sides where they ride, and your drawers will actually slide in & out better than when it was new.
I followed the advice of Ft. Walton on my Lexington dresser drawers. After reading all the others and trying all of them nothing seemed to work but finally this did. Using steady pulling pressure with both hands it came out! This worked great!
Took out the old broken pcs; screwed in replacements; and
the fit...perfect! great; thanks so much!
Wow! My husband and I spent over thirty minutes trying to get our Vaughan Bassett Mission furniture drawers out. We were moving the furniture ourselves and dreaded lifting the dresser with all the drawers in! Steady pressure worked like a charm! Thank you....
I have a new Stanley TV stand with the same drawer problem. I did get the drawer out and I now have 2 broken case runners. After removing the runners and placing them in the tracks on the bottom of the drawer to observe how they work, I think I understand how it works. The drawer tracks have 2 indentions on each side so the track will stop at the runners. The indentions do not go all the way to the bottom of the track. It seems if you lift the drawer up as it meets the runner, the runner should slide under the indentions and easily pull forward. Normally the drawer weight will keep the drawer down and cause the case runners to hit the indentions. In the picture, notice the dark mark on the stop where my runners rubbed against the indentions. Good luck to all, maybe we will put an end the frustration with this system.
Thanks for the info!! Had the same problem and followed the steps. Drawers came out with some firm pulling. Would have never gotten it upstairs otherwise!
This was a very helpful thread. It seemed overly simple. I kept re-reading it because my drawers weren't opening easily. However, I think that is because my furniture is about 10 years old and the track has pinched in a bit on the stopper. I had to give it a pretty forceful pull, but sure enough the drawer came free and slid out. Thanks for the help.
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU !!! The "straighten out and pull" worked like a charm. Ashamed to say, this thread has helped me end over a decade of frustration! I bought my full Stanley bedroom set in 1998. For all the years since, I and countless others who encountered them (wife, movers...) have been certain the drawers were not removable, a locked-in slide system for weight support. (The wood used is very thick and heavy; typical solid Stanley made-in-the-USA construction.) I have spent literally all these years dealing with supposed non-removable drawers. Finally at my wits end tonight, reaching back trying to get a long-lost pair of socks that dropped behind the drawer, I decided to consult a web search before taking more drastic measures with screwdrivers and pry bars...Needless to say, my chagrin at my own idiocy all these years of having removable drawers which I never thought to pull harder on past the stop, was only surpassed by my utter relief and excitement at finding the pair of socks - after pulling the drawer out! THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU AGAIN!
THANK YOU!!! I have three heavy pieces of bedroom furniture and have left them in the same spot for years because I couldn't get the drawers out to make them lighter. Too bad they don't come with instructions! I can't believe the solution is so simple~worked like a charm!
This also solved years endless hours of frustration over drawers on an expensive dresser that were no longer gliding properly and I could not remove! Now that i have removed the drawers I can see the broken part on the slide and have hope that I can easily repair it will replacements. THANK YOU.
Thank God I could read the maker of the track system. Had I not googled the name, I never would have gotten the drawers out. This post has been invaluable!
I tried the "easy pull" method and broke my third drawer stop. This is an extremely poor design. I can't believe there is not some kind of release for these things. I guess I'll just have to break the others and purchase new ones. I like the furniture but removing the drawers shouldn't be this hard.
I have had furniture with these products for so long, and for so long they would break and fall apart and I never thought I would find a solution or even the replacement parts.. I seriously googled "plastic pieces for dresser drawers that break easily" and this website came up.. The good Lord is GREAT! haha
I have a dresser that seems to be very "high-quality Asian made". The only marking on it says "B.E. Furniture SDN BHS Malaysia". For the life of me I couldn't figure out how to get the drawers out (and I've worked with a zillion dressers and cabinet drawers before). As another poster here said "Thank g-d the drawer sockets were marked with "Kenlin RITE-TRAK II", or I would have never found your YouTube video, which led me to your website. Which led me to the answer!
Thanks so much for providing this resource. I'm now a customer for life!
Thank you so much for the info about pulling the drawer out with even pressure on both sides. Sooo simple, especially after thinking the drawers don't come out. My husband couldn't find his Viking season ticket envelope, and was tearing the house apart for a day and a half and going out of his mind. With your information, I was able to pull his drawers out, and found it inside the cabinet behind the drawer. Such a stress relief. Who knew such simple information could be so helpful. Many thanks!!
This thread was invaluable. We have the Bassett 5th Avenue bedroom set and I could never figure out how to get the drawers out until I read what's been posted here. I just applied slow, steady pressure on each side of the drawers and they popped right out.
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Finally after 8 years of unloading each drawer I have them out. Thank you! I was always afraid I would break them. This has been super helpful.
I have the summons little folks furniture , approximately 25 years old and in wonderful condition. Like other I too could not get the drawers out past the stops. The information on pulling the drawer out to the stop and then holding on to each side and pulling slowly out past the stop worked for me!! The real problem is I thought that there may have been something stuck behind the drawer ms becsuse they would not close all the way. I removed all the drawers and much to my surprise there was nothing stuck behind them. I put the drawers back in and still have the same problem, none of the drawers will close all the way. If you put your hand
I've spent an hour on Google, watching videos on YouTube, trying to educate myself on all different kinds of tracks and the systems of how they operate in this website with something as simple as stand there and pull a little harder has fixed the problem that is causing me to sweat and cry tears of agony. Thank you so much for everybody's input. And if there's any doubt just go and try and pull the draw straight out because it really did work easy Peezy
it is almost impossible to remove the drawers in my dresser without breaking both the rear clip and front clip on the rite-track I system. i ordered more of both, but the drawer is hard to remove and when more pressure is applied the clips break. i don't see how this can work if you need to remove the drawer.
Have replaced numerous drawer guides as plastic has a way of breaking after years of use. I have found that running a bar of soap along the metal track makes the drawer much easier to open and close and seems to have added to the delay in the breaking of both plastic pieces of the guides.
This was helpful. Had the same problem with Stanley Young American dresser with Kinlin Rite-Trak II stops. However, slow and steady pulling didn't work for me, I had to give the drawers a good jerk to get them out all the way. I was careful to pull straight out, holding both ends, and it worked. Hopefully they'll go back in the same way....