Removing drawers without breaking the sockets?
April 6, 2009
How do I remove the drawers without breaking the drawer sockets. All of mine have broken. Now all of my drawers hang down in the front when I open them. Is there a better support system for these drawers that I can use? Can I double up on the supports, using 2 per drawer instead of one? Or, should I just replace the broken sockets? Would I need to replace the sliders and runners as well?
Dresser manufacturer: Stanley
Purchased at: Foremost Furniture (NY,NY) - out of business.
April 7, 2009
Standing in front of the furniture, placing 1 hand on each end of the drawer
front, stand back and PULL.
Pull straight out. Once it has come past the stop feature, the drawer can
There is no substitute system available. Only replace what is broken.
April 14, 2009
Do the runner come in heavy duty also. Or even metal
April 14, 2009
No, the 32-076
case runners are only offered in plastic.
April 14, 2009
Is there any other replacement that may be purchased that is metal or a better quality
April 14, 2009
The 32-082 Kenlin Socket is the heavy duty option for the socket. There is no heavy duty option available for the 32-076 Kenlin Case Runner.
May 4, 2009
My questions were all answered above. I just installed my new drawer hardware you sent. Just wanted to say THANKS from a former NJ girl. It is great to work with an American company!
August 10, 2009
After replacing my hardware, they seem to operate much better than the originals. I don't know why this is, but thanks!
September 26, 2009
How do I know if i have 32-082 or 32-081?
September 28, 2009
The 32-082 and 32-081 are interchangeable with each other. The only difference between the two is that the 32-082 is more heavy duty because it features a metal guard around the plastic socket. The 32-081 is only the plastic socket without the metal guard.
October 7, 2009
Our drawers have the above hardware on them but drawers do not stop, they just pull out.Am I missing something?
October 15, 2009
The directions above are written by Kenlin themselves. If you they do not work for you or you believe it may cause damage to your drawers try contacting Kenlin directly. Also, look around your area for a local furniture repair shop they may have a solution for you.
July 24, 2010
We just bought some furnature (bed room suite) that has Kenlin Rite-Trak 2 hardware. My wife want to remove the drawer, or at least adjust how far out the drawers can be pulled. There is a stop built into the RT2. Can the drawers be removed (and how with breaking the RT2), and can the stop be adjusted?
July 31, 2010
This has been an extremely helpful website. We have Stanley junior furniture with Kenlin parts, and I couldn't figure out how to remove the drawers. When I pulled the drawer to the stop position I didn't see any latch or any other way to get the rest of the drawer out. Since these were pretty expensive dressers I didn't feel comfortable pulling harder to get them out. I pictured parts and wood breaking off. There appeared to be a plastic part under the drawer where you could fit a screwdriver, so I figure you needed to wedge a screwdriver in there and either push in, or maybe rotate the plastic part. Neither worked. Then I read this site telling me to just pull the drawer out past the stop. I decided to give it a try. I didn't pull hard or fast. I just slowly pulled the drawer to the stop position. Then I put my hands on either side of the drawer and slowly pulled out past the stop. It was no problem at all.
October 4, 2010
I have a 4-piece bedroom set with 32-081 Kenlin Drawer Sockets. Because of the use of a brittle type of plastic, they break very easily. I have replaced at least 8 over the past 3 years. Can you give me some assurance that the "heavy duty" 32-802's are going to work better?
October 4, 2010
Yes, the 32-082, heavy duty socket, should provide more support.
October 19, 2010
I just wanted to say THANK YOU for the tip about removing the drawers. I have a dresser with Kenlin Rite Track II stops and watched 4 grown men nearly die moving the piece with all drawers IN. Now we're looking to move again and this makes life incredibly easy. A note for others: you don't have to pull HARD, just pull with consistent pressure, and evenly on either end of the drawer. Thanks!
December 12, 2010
I just purchased 3 sets of runners and sockets to repair 2 drawers with broken runners and sockets. Then I read here how to remove the drawers. Good thing I bought 3 sets because the drawer I "gently removed" broke the socket also. I got the heavy duty replacement ones with the metal backing. When you do this you might want to go with an oversized screw to get a good bite on the drawer. I have a different dresser with the Rite Trak II system, and of course the Rite Trak I and Rite Trak II parts are not interchangeable. You can order parts for the Rite Trake II system by going to Kenlin's website, printing off their order form and mailing it in to them. Quite an outdated order system but that is the way they do it (not as convenient as here). I haven't seen a heavy duty Rite Trak II socket from Kenlin, so I am hesitant to spend the money for something that is easily broken.
December 16, 2010
I weighed my dresser drawers (Drexel Studio Collection, Deer Valley)and they easily exceed 25 pounds with a reasonable amount of clothes in the drawer. What is the rated load for this hardware? Do the long metal guides and runners deform easily even with the new metal reinforced 32-082 : Heavy Duty Kenlin Socket?
Maybe I will do a test with weights?
February 14, 2011
I was looking to find out how to pull out the drawers on my Stanley chest of drawers. Like others, I was afraid of breaking them because there was no obvious means to release the drawer. A post by a home owner from Chicago sounded similar to my situation, so I tried just using steady pulling pressure with both hands as was mentioned in the post. Worked like a charm with no damage to my furniture! Thanks!
April 2, 2011
I have the Kenlin Track System on my drawers, and I have replaced these parts before. With the Kenlin Track System the drawer will slide out easily until the DRAWER SOCKET (at the back of the drawer) comes in contact with the CASE RUNNER (at the front of the fixed track). At this point, you just continue to pull the drawer out without tilting it up or down, and you will have to use a LOT MORE PULL EFFORT to get the DRAWER SOCKET pass the CASE RUNNER. On my drawers there are also STOPs located at the front to help keep the drawer inside the cabinet, you may have to lift the rear of the drawer UP a little to bypass the STOPs. I usually lift one side at a time, and move that side of the drawer out a little to get pass the STOP, and then repeat with the other side. On all of my drawers, I replace the standard DRAWER SOCKET with the HEAVY DUTY DRAWER SOCKET, it is a direct replacement, no extra work. At the same time I replace the CASE RUNNER as it is most likely also worn. Be sure and lube the bottom of the drawer sides where they ride, and your drawers will actually slide in & out better than when it was new.
August 9, 2011
I followed the advice of Ft. Walton on my Lexington dresser drawers. After reading all the others and trying all of them nothing seemed to work but finally this did. Using steady pulling pressure with both hands it came out! This worked great!
August 25, 2011
Took out the old broken pcs; screwed in replacements; and
the fit...perfect! great; thanks so much!
March 13, 2012
Wow! My husband and I spent over thirty minutes trying to get our Vaughan Bassett Mission furniture drawers out. We were moving the furniture ourselves and dreaded lifting the dresser with all the drawers in! Steady pressure worked like a charm! Thank you....
August 8, 2012
I have a new Stanley TV stand with the same drawer problem. I did get the drawer out and I now have 2 broken case runners. After removing the runners and placing them in the tracks on the bottom of the drawer to observe how they work, I think I understand how it works. The drawer tracks have 2 indentions on each side so the track will stop at the runners. The indentions do not go all the way to the bottom of the track. It seems if you lift the drawer up as it meets the runner, the runner should slide under the indentions and easily pull forward. Normally the drawer weight will keep the drawer down and cause the case runners to hit the indentions. In the picture, notice the dark mark on the stop where my runners rubbed against the indentions. Good luck to all, maybe we will put an end the frustration with this system.
September 5, 2012
Thanks for the info!! Had the same problem and followed the steps. Drawers came out with some firm pulling. Would have never gotten it upstairs otherwise!
September 8, 2012
Just finished installing the upgraded Heavy Duty Kenlin Socket 32-082
. Over a year ago we called a professional to fix draws that would not close. Charged $100 for about 2 minutes work. Took me 10 minutes because the little screws were loose. Suggest you get screws with longer body and definitely buy the 32-082
socket, especially if your wife is prone to loading up the draws and pulling them way out.
November 11, 2012
This was a very helpful thread. It seemed overly simple. I kept re-reading it because my drawers weren't opening easily. However, I think that is because my furniture is about 10 years old and the track has pinched in a bit on the stopper. I had to give it a pretty forceful pull, but sure enough the drawer came free and slid out. Thanks for the help.
November 17, 2012
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU !!! The "straighten out and pull" worked like a charm. Ashamed to say, this thread has helped me end over a decade of frustration! I bought my full Stanley bedroom set in 1998. For all the years since, I and countless others who encountered them (wife, movers...) have been certain the drawers were not removable, a locked-in slide system for weight support. (The wood used is very thick and heavy; typical solid Stanley made-in-the-USA construction.) I have spent literally all these years dealing with supposed non-removable drawers. Finally at my wits end tonight, reaching back trying to get a long-lost pair of socks that dropped behind the drawer, I decided to consult a web search before taking more drastic measures with screwdrivers and pry bars...Needless to say, my chagrin at my own idiocy all these years of having removable drawers which I never thought to pull harder on past the stop, was only surpassed by my utter relief and excitement at finding the pair of socks - after pulling the drawer out! THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU AGAIN!
January 9, 2013
THANK YOU!!! I have three heavy pieces of bedroom furniture and have left them in the same spot for years because I couldn't get the drawers out to make them lighter. Too bad they don't come with instructions! I can't believe the solution is so simple~worked like a charm!
January 16, 2013
This also solved years endless hours of frustration over drawers on an expensive dresser that were no longer gliding properly and I could not remove! Now that i have removed the drawers I can see the broken part on the slide and have hope that I can easily repair it will replacements. THANK YOU.
February 24, 2013
Our two 6-drawer Thomasville chests utilize the heavy-duty Kenlin 32-082
socket from the factory. More than half failed within a few years. Thanks to Swisco repairs were made in a jiffy. My examination suggests failure is due to lifting the drawer front while it is fully opened (as an initiation to closure). All of our failed sockets were broken out at the top and a few of the glide stops were torn from the front as lifting would cause. Despite the appearance of the Kenlin hardware, it is not a very robust design.
August 14, 2013
Thank God I could read the maker of the track system. Had I not googled the name, I never would have gotten the drawers out. This post has been invaluable!