Replacement top slide
Handy Person from Plano, TX
Feb 16, 2018 3:32 pm
I have uploaded a photo of the top slider and a spare part that might fit the door. These are bypass mirror glass closet doors. Which part do I need to order to replace one of the top sliders?
6 Replies
Paul from SWISCO
Feb 20, 2018 10:36 am
Unfortunately, Stanley has discontinued your top guide and then discontinued its replacement. Because of this, we have resorted to suggesting our 23-196 roller assembly as an alternative. It doesn't have a spring loaded guide wheel; rather a screw adjustment wheel. Therefore, you may have to adjust it a few times to get the doors to ride smoothly. We'd also like to mention that Stanley has also discontinued the bottom roller assembly and we offer our 23-041 as the replacement.
Professional from CA
Feb 20, 2018 1:06 pm
Isn't 23-225/23-199 closer to this one?
I recently had to replace a 23-041 with 23-199, and it worked just fine. I bought 6 of the nicer ball bearing version. I'm kind of a stickler for ball bearing wheels. I'll let you know how they work out.
As far as I can tell 23-041, 23-225 and 23-199 are very similar. The bottom support seems to be the only significant difference in mounting. The side clips and brackets line up basically the same.
This Stanley version has bottom tabs similar to 23-041, but the others don't seem to need the tabs to still work.
I recently had to replace a 23-041 with 23-199, and it worked just fine. I bought 6 of the nicer ball bearing version. I'm kind of a stickler for ball bearing wheels. I'll let you know how they work out.
As far as I can tell 23-041, 23-225 and 23-199 are very similar. The bottom support seems to be the only significant difference in mounting. The side clips and brackets line up basically the same.
This Stanley version has bottom tabs similar to 23-041, but the others don't seem to need the tabs to still work.
Quick Learner from CA
Feb 20, 2018 2:52 pm
I also verified that removing these is simpler than I thought.
Without removing the panel, I put a block of wood under the edge to hold it up.
I inserted a pick into the slot in the door and twisted it around until it centered the lock tab to free it from the slot.
The roller then pivots out of the door.
It goes back in even easier.
The panels never left the opening.
Without removing the panel, I put a block of wood under the edge to hold it up.
I inserted a pick into the slot in the door and twisted it around until it centered the lock tab to free it from the slot.
The roller then pivots out of the door.
It goes back in even easier.
The panels never left the opening.
Professional from CA
Feb 23, 2018 6:26 pm
23-225 worked as a replacement for 23-041, but I wouldn't recommend it. The side clips didn't hold as well, so I put screws through the top hole. I ended up having to remove the small tabs on the back side to make it sit flat. 23-041 has tabs that insert in front of the glass and without the tabs on 23-225 there is nothing holding the corner together. The Doors I was working on seem solid enough without them. If it is an issue in the future, I will put a screw up through the bottom to reinforce it, but I didn't want to take the door out. Lazy, I know. Next time I'll know better.
Bottom line: The side tabs don't matter much (a screw helps), but the bottom tabs do matter.
Bottom line: The side tabs don't matter much (a screw helps), but the bottom tabs do matter.
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