Thanks for your response. If you don’t mind, I have some follow up questions I’d like to ask before I try to remove the upper sash to take the picture you want me to take of the bottom edge of the upper sash where the pin is not sticking out so you can figure out what is wrong.
1/I understand you recommend purchasing the
75-006 balance charger to use to reattach the spiral balances to the shoe. When I clicked on the link, I saw you also sell a charger with a handle --part #
75-033. Would that also work with the spiral balance I have in the picture?
2/If so, would the
75-033 be easier to use because of the handle? Which charger do you recommend for someone who has never had to replace the shoe and then reattach the spiral balances before?
3/In the picture of the spiral balances that I took of an adjoining window, you’ll see that there actually appear to be three places in which the bottom of the spiral balance can be seated in the shoe. In the picture, the bottom of the spiral balance is sitting in the middle “receptor”, but I looked at some of my other windows, and the balances in those windows are sometimes sitting in the receptor closest to the inside edge of the jamb. Does it matter where I reattach the bottom of the spiral balance for the upper sash? Is always supposed to be in the middle receptor of the shoe?
4/In your response to my questions about making a cutout rather than using the jamb spreaders, you said I should cut out a square shape in the jamb large enough to get the pivot shoe out. I assume that since the shoe I am trying to replace is the shoe for the upper sash, I should cut the square opening near the bottom of the jamb (rather than the top of the jamb), correct?
5/If so, should the bottom of the square opening I cut be at the very bottom of the jamb, or is it better to cut it somewhere above the very bottom of the jamb (and if that is what you recommend, how many inches off the bottom of the jamb do you recommend?)
6/When I cut the jamb, I assume I want to cut the outermost edge of the jamb (ie the edge closest to the screen in the picture, correct? (ie not the other edge of jamb where the rear sash rides up and down)
7/How much extra of an opening should I cut than the height of the shoe? (1/4 inch; 1/2 inch? Or should the cutout be exactly the height of the shoe and no more?
8/As I mentioned, the left side of the upper sash is already disengaged from the broken shoe (and the sash pin is no longer protruding from the left edge of the sash.)Do I need to turn to turn the part of the shoe that rotates horizontal to lower the shoe to the bottom of the jamb cutout that I will make or will I be able to lower it with it in the vertical position?
9/After I order the replacement shoe from you, before I put it in the cutout I have made so I can get it back in the jamb, should the part that rotates be in the vertical or horizontal position?
10/If the replacement shoe gets put the bottom of jamb with the part in the horizontal position, once I raise it in the jamb to the position where I will try to attach the sash pin to it, do I turn the part that rotates so it is in the vertical position?--do all sashes--regardless of the mfg--re-engage in the shoe only when the part that rotates is in the vertical position?
11/ After the sash pin is reengaged in the shoe, do I then reattach the spiral balance to the shoe or do I have it backwards--which do I do first--reattach the sash to the shoe or attach the spiral balance to the shoe? I assume I attach the spiral balance last because that way there will be no spiral balance blocking me when I try to reinstall the sash pin into the shoe.
Thanks in advance for all the help and your patience