Downstairs stripped window crank

Quick Learner from Los Angeles CA
This is a circa year 2000 Windowmaster purchased from Home Depot and installed by my contractor. Looking from the inside, the crank is on the left and the window pivots out opening on the right. The part reads Entrygard and on the bottom there is a code 40754
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Quick Learner from Los Angeles CA
This is the crank to a window purchased around 2000 from Home Depot and installed by my contractor. I am pretty sure that HD identified it as a Windowmaster vinyl window. The crank reads Entrygard Truth and there is a serial number 31538A. From the inside, the crank is on the right and the window swings open on the left. The crank actually turns fine. But the connecting rod will always fall out of the channel through the gap when closing because the plastic or rubber rotating knob must have fallen off - which just exposes the metal piece that the plastic knob fit over. Looking at it, I assume that I just have to get the whole mechanism unless you tell me that there is an easy way.
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Casey
Casey from SWISCO
SWISCO
Expert

Please start by reviewing the style of the 39-031 and 39-032 or the 39-155 and 39-156 operators. The main difference between the two styles is the length of the short link arm. Compare all dimensions and the orientation of your original to confirm the best fit. It also looks like your link arm may have an upward offset, while ours are downset. If so, these would still be our best replacement options but keep in mind that you would need to manipulate the arm to connect it to the sash. 

Dimensions for 39-031
Dimensions for 39-031

Dimensions for 39-155
Dimensions for 39-155

As for the link arm becoming detached, it sounds like you may also need new stud brackets, which connect the link arm to the sash frame. We'll need to see photos of your basket uninstalled to narrow down your options. In the meantime, you're welcome to look through our selection here. Thank you! 

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