replacement spiral balances

A quick learner from Shawnee, OK says:
Trying to fix 1970 aluminum windows that the spiral balance has gone bad. The spiral drops to the bottom of the window frame. Closest thing I find is the S400-20. Would also need the appropriate bracket or attachment for this.
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Paul from SWISCO responded:
Without more information I can't confirm if the S400-20 is a match, but if you have a non-tilt window and a 3/8" diameter balance tube, then it's certainly the best place to start. As for brackets, see our 17-030 or 17-031. These are commonly used with the Series 400 spiral balance.
A quick learner from Shawnee, OK says:
Yes the windows are no tilt, 20", 3/8 per your website. There is not a cap of any color on any of the windows. The windows weigh less than 10#. I will try to attach a picture of the end. There doesn't appear to be a place to attach a bracket. However there appears to be a bracket post built-in for the slot to fit on.
User submitted a photo of a window balance.
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Paul from SWISCO responded:
Looks like you have a builder's grade window, which means the sash won't be removable. However, we do have a possible solution.

With someone helping you, you will need to drop the new balance in from the top of the sash, screw it in at the top, then let the spiral drop down. You will then raise the sash and, while someone holds the sash in the open position, spin the spiral up to the bottom of the sash. Finally, with our 75-004 tool, give the balance about three turns to charge it and lock it to the end into the sash clip.

For the color tip, consider the Red Tip option. Two S400-20 balanced with this option can carry a sash weight of 8 through 21 pounds.
A friend from warwick r.i. says:
thankyou for the ease of your site.I found what I needed to know.I will tell anyone how satisfied I was with your site,I hope your products are the same,I did not purchase them, but will attempt to install them soon and think I can do it with little trouble thanks to the info I found here.
A quick learner from Shawnee, OK says:
By removing the brass cross piece and cutting the slot a little longer, I was able to follow your suggested procedure. The problem I ran into was when I closed the window there was no resistance and it would not completely close. I did charge the cylinder with 3 clockwise turns before attaching the spiral rod to the window post. The window lacked about 1 inch closing. Any suggestions.
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Tom from SWISCO responded:
When you said it won't completely close, do you mean that it closed all the way and then drifted up, or that it simply wouldn't go past that last inch? If it drifted up, then the spring might be too strong. If it simply wouldn't close, then the balance may not be long enough.
A quick learner from shawnee, ok says:
It simply won't close. The cylinder I took out is 20" long but I think the spiral rod is longer than in the new ones I bought from you all. The tail of the rod protrudes further out of the cylinder.
Also the window didn't drift up, it didn't seem to have any tension on it at all.
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Paul from SWISCO responded:
Thanks for clarifying. If I were you, I would try to move the installation hole down, or order a longer rod like Tom mentioned. For the tension, you need to wind the spiral before locking it to the window.
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